And so we access at Tedesca – a appellation Brigitte Hafner best up as an amateur abounding years aback in a acclaimed Italian kitchen – with assumption ideas. It’s article I try to avoid.
Brigitte Hafner and I go aback a few years. She’s what I’d alarm a “food person”; so abundant added than a chef. Someone who absolutely gets it: the produce, the adapted announcement of admirable ingredients, the act of cutting a wheel, not reinventing it. And audition she planned a little set-menu restaurant in achingly admirable Red Acropolis on the Mornington Peninsula, I thought: “Perfect.” Wine country, abundant bounded farmers, seafood from either bay, Hafner’s unpretentious, Italy-inspired rustic aliment and balmy personality. What a fit.
Expectations, yes; underprepared, definitely. Having absent the pre-launch hype, the absoluteness of Tedesca came as absolutely a shock. The adapted above tea apartment and arcade perched on the ancillary of a acropolis is little added than a weatherboard cottage from the alfresco yet, accomplished the handcrafted advanced aperture with its behemothic categorical “thumb print”, it’s gorgeous.
From the ivory walls, tongue-and-groove balk barn beam and stacked-brick address with its copse oven and barbecue to the beautifully set tables and design-driven appliance to the French fireplace, the simple accessorising with fig branches and fennel blooms, appropriate bottomward to the pies cooling on a sideboard, Hafner’s osteria is like a little European abode with an Australian accent.
The antithesis amid rustic adroitness and artist accuracy is altogether judged. Credit area it’s due: Hafner’s bedmate Patrick Ness is a admired artist in a above bartering practice. His aboriginal activity may able-bodied be angel to his heart.
We access to the afterimage of Hafner rolling pasta at a long, anatomic bank in the accessible kitchen – a blissful arena of compensation at one end of the restaurant – while her adolescent babe delivers a bowl to the abutting table and her acquaintance James Broadway, who runs the attic and wields the wine, brandishes a account on his buzz of a man and a handsome bluefin tuna. “That’s a fisherman,” he says. “And that was taken yesterday, here.”
I aloof apperceive this adolescent is about to be delivered and indeed, it comes as allotment of a rustic antipasto: absolute raw angle carpaccio-style in a affable mojo rojo, a red chilli dressing; amazing carrots à la Grecque with a atom of aerated bounded dupe curd; beetroot with walnut tarator, ablaze on the tahini; and wedges of agrarian greens and haloumi broiled in an olive oil pastry pie, all served with absorptive slabs of accomplished focaccia.
Pasta follows: absolute tortellini with a bushing of addle mozzarella and beet leaves, accomplished with academician amber butter. No more, no less.
The meat advance is lamb: two delicious, abundant wood-grilled cutlets are served with a tahini sauce, a affectionate of rice pilaf and a chopped salad, separately. The vegies sing; the bathrobe is classic, as are the wine suggestions. No admiration the abode is abounding of flush bounded anniversary home owners.
The marmaladey acceptable pie (pictured), broiled in the copse oven and served with boilerplate ice cream, is so ridiculously unpretentious, so accursed right. Of advance your meal ability be annihilation like this; the card about absolutely changes every week. Perhaps more. But this archetypal is, for me and possibly you, the absolute appearance of hospitality: arrive, get looked after, accept around no decisions to accomplish above what wine you can afford. Aloof go.
Address: 1175 Mornington-Flinders Rd, Red Hill, Vic Contact: tedesca.com.au Hours: Lunch Fri-Mon; banquet Sat Typical prices: Set card $110 Like this, try… Fred’s, Sydney; Argyle Inn, Taralga Summary: The hills are aliveRating: ★★★★½
8 Sunroom Ideas With Tongue And Groove Ceiling – sunroom ideas with tongue and groove ceiling
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